Something is wrong with your garage door. Maybe it will not open at all. Maybe it opens halfway and stops. Maybe it makes a sound that scares the dog. Whatever it is, you need to figure out what is happening before you call someone — because half the time, the fix is something you can do yourself in 2 minutes.
I am going to walk you through this the same way I diagnose problems when I pull up to a customer's house. Start with the simplest, most likely cause and work your way through until you find it.
Step 1: Is It Getting Power?
Before anything else — is the opener plugged in and receiving electricity?
- Check the outlet. Plug something else into it (phone charger, lamp) to verify the outlet works.
- Check your breaker panel. Garage circuits trip during power surges and storms.
- If you had a recent power outage, the opener may need a reset. Unplug it for 30 seconds, plug it back in.
- Check the LED light on the opener motor unit. If it is completely dark — no lights at all — it is a power issue.
This fixes about 10% of "not working" calls.
Step 2: Are the Remotes Working?
If the opener has power (LED is on) but the remote does not work:
- Replace the battery. This is the #1 fix for "my garage door stopped working." CR2032 coin batteries die without warning. Replace it and try again.
- Try the wall button inside the garage. If the wall button works but the remote does not, it is a remote or antenna issue — not the opener.
- If neither the remote nor the wall button works, the problem is the opener itself (skip to Step 4).
Dead batteries account for about 25% of service calls. Seriously.
Step 3: Are the Safety Sensors Blocked?
If the door opens fine but will not close — or starts to close then reverses — the photo-eye sensors are the most likely cause.
- Look at the two small sensors at the bottom of the tracks, about 6 inches off the floor.
- Both should have a solid green LED light. If one is blinking or off, the beam is not connecting.
- Wipe both lenses with a soft cloth. Dust, cobwebs, and Central Oregon's volcanic grit accumulate fast.
- Check for anything blocking the beam — a broom leaning against the wall, a shoe, a trash can.
- Direct afternoon sunlight can overwhelm the sensor. Shield it with a small cardboard tube.
Dirty or misaligned sensors cause about 30% of "door won't close" calls.
Step 4: Listen to What the Opener Does
Press the wall button and listen carefully. What the opener does (or does not do) tells you what is wrong:
Motor runs but door does not move = stripped gears
You hear the motor humming or grinding, but the door stays put. The main drive gear inside the opener has stripped — a nylon gear that wears out after 10,000-15,000 cycles. This is a common repair that takes about an hour. Full opener repair guide →
Click but no motor = failed capacitor
You hear a single click from the motor unit but the motor does not spin. The start capacitor has failed — it provides the initial surge to get the motor spinning. Common after power surges and lightning storms.
Nothing at all = power, circuit board, or motor
No sound, no light, no response. Check power first (Step 1). If power is fine, the circuit board or motor may have failed. This usually means replacement rather than repair, especially on openers over 15 years old.
Motor runs, door moves, then reverses = force or sensor issue
The opener is trying but something is making the door too hard to move. Could be force settings too sensitive, track obstruction, or failing springs making the door heavier. Full reversing guide →
Step 5: Check the Door Itself (Not the Opener)
Pull the emergency release cord (red handle hanging from the opener rail). This disconnects the door from the opener so you can test the door independently.
Try lifting the door manually:
Door lifts easily and stays in place = opener problem
The door is fine — springs and balance are good. The problem is in the opener. Go back to Step 4.
Door is extremely heavy = broken spring
If the door feels like it weighs a ton, a spring has broken. Look at the horizontal bar above the door — if you see a gap in the coils, that confirms it. Do not try to open the door. Call us. Spring repair guide →
Door moves but binds or scrapes = track or roller issue
The door moves but catches, jerks, or makes scraping sounds. Could be a bent track, worn rollers, or the door is partially off track. Visually inspect the tracks for bends or debris. If the door is off track, stop — do not force it. Call a professional.
Door hangs crooked = broken cable
One side is higher than the other. A cable has likely snapped or come off the drum. Do not operate the door. Cable repair guide →
Quick Reference: Problem → Most Likely Cause
| Symptom | Most Likely Cause | DIY? |
|---|---|---|
| Remote does not work | Dead battery | Yes |
| Door won't close | Dirty sensors | Yes |
| Grinding noise, no movement | Stripped gear | No — call pro |
| Click, no motor | Failed capacitor | No — call pro |
| Door extremely heavy | Broken spring | No — call pro |
| Door hangs crooked | Broken cable | No — call pro |
| Door reverses when closing | Force settings or sensors | Maybe — try sensors first |
| Door stuck halfway | Track obstruction or off-track | No — call pro |
When to Call a Professional
If you have tried the battery, sensors, and power reset and the door still is not working — or if you see a broken spring, crooked door, or loose cable — call us at 541-203-7676. Same-day service Mon-Fri when you call by 2 PM. We carry parts on every truck for most common repairs.
Serving Bend, Redmond, Sisters, Sunriver, La Pine & all of Central Oregon.