How to Replace Garage Door Springs

12 min read · November 1, 2024 · By Bend Garage Door Repair

Safety Warning: Garage door torsion springs store 200+ pounds of force. This is the most dangerous DIY garage door repair. This guide is educational only. Oregon law (ORS 701.026) requires licensed contractors for spring work. Need help? Call <a href="tel:541-203-7676">541-203-7676</a> for same-day service.

Your garage door spring just snapped with a loud bang. The door won't budge. Now you're wondering: can I replace this myself? Here's the honest answer from someone who's replaced over 2,000 springs in Central Oregon: torsion spring replacement is the most dangerous DIY garage door repair. These springs store 200+ pounds of force. One mistake can send you to the ER. That said, I'll walk you through the exact process we use at Brokentop Garage Doors. You'll learn what's involved, what tools you need, and why most homeowners end up calling us at 541-203-7676 after reading this guide. This isn't a "you can definitely do this" pep talk. It's a realistic look at a job that requires specialized tools, specific knowledge of spring specifications, and zero room for error. By the end, you'll understand why this repair costs $250-350 when done professionally – and why that's money well spent.

What You'll Need

Tools

Two 1/2" solid steel winding bars (18" long minimum) - $40
Socket wrench set with 7/16", 1/2", 9/16" sockets
Adjustable wrench (10-inch)
C-clamps or locking pliers (2)
Safety glasses (ANSI Z87.1 rated) - REQUIRED
Leather work gloves
Sturdy ladder (6-8 foot)
Tape measure
Marker or paint pen
Vice grips

Materials

Replacement torsion springs (BOTH springs, not just broken one) - $80-120 per pair
Winding cones (if damaged) - $15 each
Safety cables for extension springs (if applicable) - $12
White lithium grease - $8

Estimated Cost: $200-250 for DIY (if you already have tools), $250-350 for professional installation

Step 1: Identify Your Spring Type and Specifications

Before buying replacement springs, you need exact specs. Wrong springs = dangerous door that won't work. Torsion springs (mounted above door on a shaft) have these critical measurements: • Wire diameter (typically .218" to .250") • Inside diameter (1.75" or 2" most common) • Length (18" to 30" typically) • Wind direction (left-wind or right-wind) Here's how to measure: Look at the end of your UNBROKEN spring (if one broke, measure the good one). You'll see a colored end - that's the wind direction indicator. Red = right-wind, black = left-wind. Most residential doors use two springs: one right-wind, one left-wind. The wire diameter is stamped on the spring end in 1/16" increments (like "4" = 4/16" = 1/4"). Measure the spring length from end to end when it's relaxed (not stretched). The inside diameter is the size of the shaft it sits on - 1" or 2" for residential. Can't find markings? Take a photo and text it to us at 541-203-7676. We'll ID your springs for free. Bend, Redmond, and Sisters customers get quotes in 2 hours.

Safety: Never measure springs under tension. Disconnect the opener and secure the door first.

Pro Tip: Order high-cycle springs (25,000+ cycles) instead of standard 10,000. They cost $20 more but last 2-3x longer in Bend's extreme temperature swings.

Step 2: Disconnect the Garage Door Opener

Pull the red emergency release cord hanging from your opener. This disengages the trolley from the door. Why? If the opener activates while you're working, it can cause the door to move unexpectedly - that's how people get crushed. Unplug the opener from the wall outlet. Don't just disconnect the release cord and leave it plugged in. Kids or spouses don't know you're working on the door. One button press = disaster. Next, disconnect the opener arm from the door bracket. There's usually a pin or bolt connecting the curved arm to the top of the door. Remove this completely. Test the emergency release by manually trying to open the door a few inches. It should move freely without the opener engaging. If it doesn't, you didn't fully disengage.

Safety: Lock out the breaker for your garage if possible. Put a note on it: "DO NOT TURN ON - WORKING ON GARAGE DOOR"

Step 3: Secure the Door in the Open Position

This is where most DIYers screw up. They try to change springs with the door closed, thinking "it's sitting on the ground, what could go wrong?" Wrong. The door needs to be open. Lift the door manually until it's fully open. Have a helper hold it, or prop it with 2x4s on sawhorses under the door. We use special door props, but sawhorses work. Once the door is up, clamp vice grips to the track just below the bottom roller on both sides. This prevents the door from falling if a cable breaks or you lose grip. Place your ladder underneath the door opening - not to the side. If the door falls (and it might), you don't want it landing on you. Position yourself so you can reach the springs while standing safely to the side. In Bend's winter, this is harder because cold makes springs more brittle. We've seen springs snap while homeowners are trying to prop doors open. That's why we charge $75 extra for emergency calls in January and February - it's legitimately more dangerous.

Pro Tip: Take a photo of the cable routing before you touch anything. You'll thank yourself later when reassembling.

Step 4: Release Tension from the Old Springs

This is the moment where DIYers either succeed or end up in the ER. Releasing spring tension requires precision. You'll see a winding cone (black metal cone) at each end of the spring. It has 4-6 holes where you insert your winding bar. Each hole represents 1/4 turn. Insert your 1/2" winding bar into the bottom hole (closest to the floor). Grip it firmly with both hands. Loosen the set screws on the winding cone 1/4 turn - just enough to release pressure, NOT all the way out. Here's the critical part: The spring will try to unwind. You control this by allowing it to rotate 1/4 turn at a time. Move the bar to the next hole, let it unwind another 1/4 turn. Repeat until all tension is gone. How many turns? Standard 7-foot doors: 30 quarter-turns (7.5 full rotations). 8-foot doors: 36-40 quarter-turns. Count them. Write it down. You'll need this number later. I learned this the hard way in 2017. Customer in Northwest Crossing (Bend) called after her husband tried this without counting turns. When we installed the new springs, we had to guess at the winding. Took three trips to get the tension right. Don't be that guy.

Safety: NEVER use screwdrivers or weak bars. They bend or slip, and 200 lbs of force sends the bar flying into your face. Only use solid 1/2" steel winding bars.

Pro Tip: Spray the set screws with WD-40 the night before. Bend's cold winters seize these screws, making them nearly impossible to loosen without heat.

Step 5: Remove the Old Springs and Hardware

With tension released, unscrew the set screws completely and remove the winding cones. Slide them off the shaft. Next, unbolt the spring anchor bracket in the center of the door header (the horizontal beam above the door). This bracket holds the springs' center point. Slide the old springs off the torsion shaft. They should move freely now that tension is released. Inspect the shaft for rust, dents, or bends. If you see damage, the shaft needs replacement too. A bent shaft will bind new springs and cause premature failure. We see this a lot in Sunriver vacation homes - they sit unused for months, moisture gets in, shaft rusts. Check the bearing plates (the metal plates on each side that hold the shaft). If they're loose or damaged, tighten or replace them now. Loose bearings cause springs to wind unevenly, which leads to cables coming off drums. Clean the shaft with a wire brush and degreaser. Fifteen years of grime buildup can prevent new springs from sliding on easily.

Pro Tip: Save the old springs. You can bring them to our shop (Bend) and we'll verify you ordered the right size replacements before you install them. Free service - saves you a returned-springs headache.

Step 6: Install the New Springs

Slide the new springs onto the shaft in the correct order: left-wind spring on the left, right-wind on the right. The stationary cones (the ends WITHOUT the winding holes) should face the center. Here's a mistake that costs $100 to fix: installing springs backward. The stationary cone must be toward the center, winding cone toward the outside. Get this wrong, and the door won't open. Make sure the springs sit flush against the center bearing plate. Reinstall the center anchor bracket and bolt it down tight. This bracket keeps springs centered during operation. Slide the cable drums onto each end of the shaft, outside the springs. These drums are what the cables wrap around. Notice they have a set screw - don't tighten it yet. You need the drum to move freely for the next step. Thread the cables over the drums and down to the bottom brackets. The cable should sit in the groove on the drum. One wrap clockwise from the inside out. When you're done, the cable should come off the drum and drop straight down to the bottom roller bracket. In nine years, I've seen cables installed backward 50+ times. It's the #2 DIY mistake after not counting winding turns.

Safety: Double-check spring wind direction before tightening anything. Wrong installation can cause springs to shatter when wound.

Step 7: Wind the New Springs

This is the reverse of step 4 - but now you're loading 200+ pounds of force into springs that are inches from your face. Concentrate. Insert your winding bar into the bottom hole of the winding cone. Push UP and CLOCKWISE. This loads tension into the spring. Count each quarter-turn. Use the turn count from step 4, then add 1/4 turn for proper tension. So if you counted 30 quarter-turns coming off, wind 31 quarter-turns going on. Every 4-6 quarter-turns, tighten the set screws slightly to prevent the cone from slipping. Don't fully tighten until all turns are complete. The spring will get harder to turn as you add tension. This is normal. If it feels impossibly hard at 20 turns, you bought the wrong springs. Stop and call us. When you've completed all turns, tighten the set screws HARD. We're talking 30-40 ft-lbs of torque. Loose set screws are the #1 cause of springs unwinding after installation. Here's how we check tension at Brokentop: With springs wound, try lifting the door manually. It should feel nearly weightless - like lifting 10-15 pounds max. If it's heavy, add 1/4 turn. If it's too light (door wants to fly open), remove 1/4 turn. Bend's climate makes this finicky. In summer heat, springs expand slightly - you might need 1/4 turn less. Winter cold contracts springs - add 1/4 turn more. We adjust tension seasonally for Central Oregon customers who have preventive maintenance plans.

Safety: Keep your face to the SIDE of the winding cone. If the bar slips, the cone spins. I've seen it remove teeth from homeowners who were staring at their work. Not kidding.

Pro Tip: Have your helper lift the door slowly after winding. Watch the cables - they should wind evenly onto the drums without bunching. Uneven winding means you'll be replacing cables in 6 months.

Step 8: Test the Door and Reconnect the Opener

Remove the vice grips from the track. Have your helper stand to the side (NOT under the door). Slowly lower the door manually. The door should stay put when you stop lowering it at any point. If it drops fast, springs are under-tensioned. If it shoots up, they're over-tensioned. Adjust in 1/4-turn increments. Cycle the door manually 10 times - all the way up, all the way down. Listen for grinding, watch for cable issues, feel for binding. The door should move smoothly and feel balanced. Now test the balance properly: Open the door halfway (about 3-4 feet off the ground). Let go. The door should stay put, not drop or rise. This is the ultimate test of proper spring tension. Once balanced, reconnect the opener arm to the door bracket. Plug the opener back in. Program it if needed (your manual has instructions - or YouTube does). Test with the opener - 5 full cycles. The opener shouldn't strain. If you hear the motor working hard, springs are under-tensioned. Final step: Lubricate. Spray white lithium grease along the full length of both springs. Also hit the rollers, hinges, and track. Takes 5 minutes, extends spring life 30%. We offer a final check service for $49. We'll come out, verify your spring tension, check the cable routing, and give you a signed-off inspection sheet for your homeowner's insurance. About 40% of DIYers in Bend area take us up on this - worth it for peace of mind.

Pro Tip: Set a phone reminder for 3 months from now: "Lubricate garage door springs". Quarterly maintenance doubles spring life in Central Oregon's harsh climate.

Troubleshooting

Door drops fast when lowering

Springs are under-tensioned. Add 1/4 turn to each spring. Disconnect opener, manually test balance, then add tension incrementally until balanced.

Door shoots up when opening

Springs are over-tensioned. Remove 1/4 turn from each spring. This is less common but just as dangerous - over-tensioned springs can snap.

Door is crooked (one side higher than other)

Uneven spring tension OR one cable came off the drum. Check cables first - if one slipped off, you need to release ALL tension and rethread the cable. Never try to fix cables with springs under tension.

Springs make grinding or popping noises

Normal for brand new springs during first 10-20 cycles. The springs are settling. If it persists beyond 50 cycles, springs may be binding on the shaft - check for rust or debris.

Set screws keep loosening

You didn't tighten them enough, OR you stripped the cone holes. Use a longer Allen key for more leverage. If holes are stripped, the cone needs replacement ($15 + labor to re-tension).

Cables are loose or sagging

Springs are definitely under-tensioned. Add 1-2 full turns (4-8 quarter-turns). Cables should be taut at all times when door is closed.

One spring broke within 6 months of installation

Wrong spring spec, OR you didn't replace BOTH springs. Mixing old and new springs causes the new one to work harder and fail early. Always replace both. This is why we refuse to replace just one spring for customers - we won't put our name on a job that'll fail.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just the broken spring instead of both?

Technically yes, practically no. Here's why we always replace both at Brokentop: If one spring broke, the other is the same age and will break within 3-6 months. Then you pay for labor twice. The springs cost $80-120 for a pair. Labor is $170. Saving $40-60 on one spring means spending $170 again in a few months. We've replaced springs in over 500 Bend homes - this is the #1 regret we hear from DIYers who went the cheap route.

How long do garage door springs last in Central Oregon?

Standard 10,000-cycle springs: 5-7 years with quarterly maintenance, 3-5 years without. Bend's temperature extremes (we see -10°F to 110°F) are murder on springs. High-cycle springs (25,000-100,000 cycles): 10-15 years with maintenance. We install almost exclusively high-cycle springs now because Redmond, Sisters, and Bend customers were tired of replacing standard springs every 5 years.

What if I can't find the exact spring specifications?

Call us at 541-203-7676 or bring your old spring to our shop in Bend. We'll measure it with calipers and look up the specs in our database - free service. We stock 90% of common spring sizes for Central Oregon homes. If yours is a weird size (manufactured homes, custom doors), we can order and have it in 2-3 days from our supplier in Portland.

Is it legal to DIY garage door spring replacement in Oregon?

Gray area. Oregon law (ORS 701.026) doesn't explicitly ban homeowners from working on their own springs, but it requires licensed contractors (CCB) for "structural" work. Insurance companies interpret this differently. State Farm, Allstate, and Farmers have denied homeowner claims after DIY garage door injuries in Oregon. Your call, but get it in writing from your insurance company before attempting this.

Why do you recommend professional installation?

Liability, honestly. In 9 years, I've seen three serious injuries from DIY spring replacement in the Bend area. One guy lost two fingers when his winding bar slipped. Another took a spring to the face when it broke during installation - 47 stitches. The third had a 300-pound door fall on his leg because he didn't secure it properly. Hospital bills: $18,000, $31,000, and $12,000. Our service call: $275. You do the math.

How much does professional spring replacement cost in Bend?

Our pricing: Standard springs (10,000-cycle): $250. High-cycle springs (25,000+): $295. Emergency same-day: +$75. Two-car garage (two separate doors): Double the price. We're competitive with other licensed CCB contractors in Central Oregon. Unlicensed handymen charge $150-180 but have zero insurance - if they hurt themselves on your property, your homeowner's policy pays. Not worth it.

What tools do I absolutely need that I probably don't have?

Winding bars. Not optional. They cost $40 for a pair. You can't use screwdrivers, breaker bars, or "that metal rod in my garage". It will bend or slip, and you will get hurt. We sell winding bars at cost ($40) if you want to buy them for future maintenance. Otherwise, the $275 service call includes the right tools, the right springs, and a 1-year labor warranty.

Can cold weather in Bend affect my new springs?

Absolutely. Springs contract in cold weather, which effectively increases tension. We install springs at 75°F reference temp, then adjust for season. If you install springs yourself in January, they'll be over-tensioned in July. Springs installed in August will be under-tensioned in December. Professional trick: Install in spring or fall (moderate temps), then check tension when seasons change. We offer free tension checks for customers who bought springs from us.

You made it through the guide. You now know more about garage door spring replacement than 95% of homeowners. Here's my honest take after replacing 2,000+ springs in Central Oregon: Half the people who read this guide will call us instead of attempting it themselves. That's the smart move. The other half will start the job, get to step 4 (releasing tension), and realize "this is way more dangerous than I thought." We get 10-15 calls per month from DIYers who want us to finish what they started. We charge $100 extra for those calls because we have to undo their mistakes first. If you're committed to DIY, go slow. Triple-check every step. Take photos as you disassemble so you remember how it goes back together. And for the love of safety glasses, wear them. If you'd rather have this done in 45 minutes by someone who's done it 2,000 times - call 541-203-7676. Same-day service in Bend, Redmond, and Sisters. We'll bring the right springs, the right tools, and a 1-year labor warranty. Either way, you now understand why this job costs what it costs. It's skilled work with real risk. Respect that risk. Need professional installation? Call 541-203-7676 or visit brokentopgaragedoors.com. Licensed Oregon contractor (CCB #209697) serving Central Oregon since 2016.

Need Professional Help?

Call us at 541-203-7676 for same-day service in Central Oregon.